Meet Chefs And Cookbook Authors

Oct 12, 2008

Brahmin Recipes From Viji Varadarajan

My guest today is Viji Varadarajan of vijisamayal.org. Viji is an expert in tamil brahmin recipes. Viji has written many best selling brahmin recipe cookbooks. She won the ‘Gourmand Award’ for her books. ‘Gourmand’ is referred to a lover of good food. These awards begun by the brilliant Edouard Cointreau identifies and rewards the best cookbooks and wine-books in the world. Read below to find out more about Viji…

Can you tell me about the type of recipes in your cookbooks (what I mean here is - Viji, in one of your emails to me you mentioned about ‘tamil brahmin cooking’, can you elaborate on that)

Tamil Brahmin cuisine is based on the concept that food shapes the personality, mood and mind. A healthy vegetarian diet fosters sathvic qualities, soothens the mind and is essential for spiritual progress. In a Brahmin household food was always cooked with a great deal of attention to cleanliness; to the balancing of nutrition, flavour, texture and variety. All this coupled with the knowledge of the Divine as the first taster of the day’s meal. This in today’s Indian life is a unique thought as we are all getting entangled in the corporate jungle of urban life - what with the introduction of instant food packs, ‘kadai paneer’ and ‘chicken tikka!’

I therefore felt the passionate need for today’s generation that was to a large extent losing out on an entire culture. My books are a record for posterity the dishes of this unique community. Today’s younger generation is in search of their roots and want to return to the tastes and smells of their childhood or families. Identity is inextricably tied with food habits. As I have said before, most of these dishes are not to be had in restaurants and are served in only a few homes.

Different spices played an important role in the dishes. Fenugreek as a digestive aid, cumin for its multiple usages, dried legumes and beans as nature’s tiny capsules of proteins, pepper for colds and coughs, turmeric as a healer of wounds – in fact, every ingredient used in the Tambram cuisine has a purpose that goes beyond taste and texture.

The books have resulted in:

Documenting all these recipes so that it will be available as a ready reference to the community and to others world over.
To promote understanding and to appreciate the advantages of a vegetarian diet.
The vegetables have been analysed from the point of view of nutrition and health.
Presenting recipes that are perfectly balanced – low in fats and cholesterol and yet protein and vitamin rich.
Recipes that are authentic and have been handed down and perfected in the kitchens and temples throughout South India

What is your favorite spice to cook with and why?

My favourite spice/spices is the ‘sambar powder’. It is very versatile and healthy and is used for a range of recipes in my cookbooks. I have innovated with it and still remained authentic in taste. The ‘rasams’ are quite exclusive broths/potage in this cuisine. We have a variety of it and each is uniquely different in taste. In my books this spice powder is used for ‘kuzhambus’ ‘sambars’ stir-fried vegetables and in ‘rasams’.

In your opinion, what is the most underrated ingredient?

Instead of just underrated I would also say little used ingredient. It is certainly the black sesame. It has a nutty crunchy taste though not different from white sesame that is used the world over. The ‘ellu urundai’ - sesame brittle, prepared out of this ingredient is delicious and famous in a tamil household. Today though, the black sesame is confined to certain rituals and death ceremonies in Brahmin homes.

What is your best cooking tip for a novice?

Did you say what tip? Well I would certainly advocate this cuisine. Read instructions carefully. Start cooking once you familiarize yourself with the ingredients. ‘You are what you eat.’ These dishes are not only delicious when prepared but also equally healthy. Teach this cuisine to others. Spread the message of healthy living.

I have seen Indian cookbooks that say ‘No Oil Cooking.’ Why don’t they straightaway try out tambram cuisine? This clearly shows that Indian cooking has always advocated greasy unhealthy fatty foods. No exaggeration here.

Viji Varadarajan’s Books